Lahore is second largest city, and the capital of the Punjab province. It is widely considered the country's cultural capital.
Lahore is a city of culture, of history, of an unrivaled charm that sets it apart from every other city on earth. It has the largest number of educational institutions in the country and some of the finest gardens in the continent. Apart from being the cultural and academic center of the country, Lahore is the showcase for Mughal architecture in Pakistan. Lahore was once a thriving cultural center of the great Mughal Empire, and its Galore and Majestic Charm can be felt it its very Presences. Mughal Emperors in their time beautified Lahore, with palaces, gardens and mosques.
Lahore…… Lahore Aye…
"I have purchased Lahore with my life. By giving my life for Lahore, I have actually purchased another Paradise."
Empress Noor Jahan
Memoirs of my early childhood in an enchanting city called Lahore…when somebody is asked to define the particular charm of their good old city Lahore, native Lahori’s will reply a short and sweet brief answer, 'Lahore Lahore aye'.
A beautiful city with its faded elegance wearing a mantle of Historical aura is remembered with fondness when my father was posted there in the 70’s. Situated on the east bank of the Ravi River, it was once the capital city of Mughal Empire. During the reign of Shah Jahan's rule, Lahore became the "City Of Gardens." The imprints of magnificent past though slowly fading hold a miasma of historical glory.
The intellectual, cultural, artistic city is also lovingly calls heart [Dil] of Pakistan. Once you get past the heat, noise and the crowded streets, Lahore’s inner beauty unfolds with elaborately laid Mughal gardens, amazing mosques, Sufi shrines, exotic bazaars, and great educational institution, making it a city full of atmosphere, providing serene spiritual tranquility contrasted with the pandemonium outside. Romance floats in the very air of Lahore, between the haze of pollution molecules, roasted-earth smell of the post rainfall in the streets, the blooming roses of the Great Gardens or the aroma of food being cooked at roadside restaurants of every corner of the city. Presently, Lahore is the 2nd largest city of Pakistan, the 5th largest city in South Asia and the 23rd largest city in the World. It is only two and half hours away from Harappa the oldest civilized city of the world. Lahore is perhaps the continuation of the north part of the Great Indus valley civilization.
In the bazaars of the Old City one still comes across tiny shops where craftsmen can be seen busy turning out master-pieces in copper, brass, silver as well as textiles in the traditional fashion.
Anarkali bazaar is the most fascinating of the city's many bazaars. It is a treasure-trove, selling virtually everything from bangles, carpets, clothes, handicraft to transistor radio, pots and pans, refrigerator, traditional crafts like leather wear, embroidered garments glass bangles, beaten gold and silver jewelry, creations in brocade and silk. It is a fascinating maze of lanes and alleys which stretch northwards from the Mall at the Central Museum end.
Evoking a romantic history it is named after the famous courtesan of Akbar's court called Anarkali (Pomegranate Blossom).
Down the memory lanes takes me to the bungalow located in Gulberg area. Gulberg is a combination of the Persian "Gul" [flower] and a Punjabi variation of the Persian word bagh, meaning an open park. Gulberg was famous in the past for large gardens; hence the name, the house with a huge garden with multitude fruits trees and hundreds of mango trees is still fondly remembered.
The very climate of Punjab Lahore evokes passion and compassion. My recollection of Lahore is remembered by only two seasons…. namely the winter and the summer.
Magical summer was all about relishing savoring delicious varieties of homegrown mangoes drinking sherbet and lassi [yogurt drink].Summer nights also meant sleeping under the sky stargazing with my siblings we would make shapes out of constellations in the night sky.
The Lahori summers used to be heralded by angry red sky of an approaching dust storm. Those dull orange yellow dust storms would strike horror and fear in the hearts of everyone especially the farmer’s gardener’s and servants. With frantic quickness they would be seen running back and forth closing the windows or covering the baby plants. But to me those beautiful yellow red beige and brown storms were visual delights. I would stand in the verandah under the mulberry tree, mentally taking notes to paint those scenes.
Witnessing the exciting monsoon thunderstorms downpour, contemplating at the ingeniousness of Mother Nature, the wonders of Allaah Kareem Great wisdom I used to ponder over the process of the ripening of the mangoes, first with the scorching Punjab heat, then quenching the thirst of the heat with the Monsoon downpours.
Amazing work of Divine Art, Great Power Drip Point to Ponder, Presentation, deserving standing ovation…which I would be doing, while everyone else would be running frantically around closing the windows lest the rain showers spoil the floor carpets of the comfortable rooms.
The Mali [gardener] bringing the basket full of fragrant “Motia” [jasmine]to grandma to make bracelets [gajras] is also fondly remembered. Visiting the northern Lush green mountainous Nathiagali, Murree, Swat, and Kaghan to escape the Punjab heat in summer was also part of childhood summer. Where we use to ran out of superlatives for the scenery in the Northern part of Pakistan.
The climate of Lahore in winter is one of the best in the world and this is the preferred time of the year to visit this historical and culturally rich city which boasts of many grand buildings of the British and the Mughal Era. Lahore's winter is short-lived, but it can get quite chilly. January is the coldest month, with an average high of 64 (18) and an average low of 41 (5).
The houses are not centrally heated; at least in my time these were not, most people used to have gas or electric heaters in their homes during these short and cold but cozy romantic winters.
During the day the sun was the prime source of warmth, night time was about keeping oneself warm around heaters or angethie’s the old fashioned way, and sleeping under that ton of heavy rui ke lehaf [cotton filled comforter.]
It was also about wrapping wrapping up in layers to cope with the winter chill, wearing all kinds of shawls, Kashmiri, local, mufflers sweaters ,turtlenecks, cardigans……topies [hats]. The morning’s and afternoon ‘s was dedicated to sitting in the verandah or lawn lazy-ing soaking in the sun, eating dry fruits, my favorite chilgoza’s [pine nut] having halwa’s [sweet] and sipping Kashmiri chai or coffee, with family and friends. It was also about peeling and enjoying oranges, and shelling home grown peas. My best part was devouring my favorite books, Enid Blyton, Archie, Sad Sack, Mads, Comic books, illustrated classics, flipping glossy Vogue and other foreign fashion magazine.
Driving through the hazy wintery, fog of Mall road….. to school….and then stopping to buy dry fruits at Liberty Market, stall ‘s over spilling with crunchy winter goodies in Gulberg’s Main market especially my favorite gajaak [peanut brittle]…
Picnic Trips to the beautiful historical Shalimar Mughal gardens and mosques visiting farmlands to enjoy yummy Sarson ka Saag [Spinach] with Makai ki Roti [corn bread] is also part of delicious Punjab memories.
My best years of school life were studying in J.M School, a majestic classical colonial building located on Durand road Lahore. Wide manicured lawns, flowerbeds brimming with zinnias, roses, marigolds gigantic more than hundred years old mature trees shading the wide walkways. The first impression of the school was of imposing grandeur an aura of authority, commanding silent strictness. Most of my time was spend gazing outside admiring the building instead of studying. Keeping an eye on the clock for delicious lunch break, playing basketball and making plans with my friends. Those were my days of developing understanding with the great English writers Austen, Dickens, Gaskell, Bronte, Eliot, Hardy and many more.
Teachers had great expectations from us teaching ‘Great Expectations’. Drilling the story of Pip, Pumblechook, Miss Havisham and others, but my greatest expectation was getting an ‘A’ in my Art class. Geometry, algebra and math’s assignment was always done for me by my friend ‘Faiza’. The theory of theorem was never kind to my brain analyzing system. History and geography was loved because I loved making charts, illustration, and I always dream t of traveling.....excerpt from my book
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